Scorpions
These care guides are just that, guides, based on my experience with the species. Please be mindful of you local climate and house environment and adjust the care accordingly. Some individuals among a species may also vary in their care needs.
*please note my care may vary from others
Forest scorpions
Desert Scorpions
Forest scorpions
- Light: Scorpions are nocturnal. They do not enjoy/benefit from light. Ambient room light is sufficient.
- Water: A water dish should be included in the enclosure. I add pebbles to the dish, because scorpions can drown. You can use various things as a water dish: bottle lids, glazed terra cotta plant bottoms, tea light holders, reptile water dishes, etc. Just make sure the item isn’t painted or contains other toxic materials. Also make sure the dish is shallow, they aren’t great climbers. Preferred materials: glass, plastic, glazed terra cotta. Each species will have a different humidity preference/requirement, once you have determined their humidity needs fill the water dish so the pebbles are barely covered. You can also include moss and mist it weekly. Misting is great for forest species. Use a substrate that retains moisture (coconut based soil, reptisoil, etc.), make sure the soil doesn’t have fertilizers. Live plants also add to moisture and humidity. You can determine if your enclosure is too damp or too dry by the scorpions behavior; It’s too damp if they will try to climbing the walls of the enclosure and not stand on the substrate (staying on the cork and not burrowing). It is too dry if they are standing in and on their water dish or digging underneath their water dish. It is also too dry if they go into death curl.
- Food: feed according to abdomen size. Overfeeding can shorten the lifespan of your scorpion. Always remove uneaten prey within 24hrs.
- Scorplings eat every 2 to 3 days. Small 1-2 week crickets, or pre-killed crickets (one 5 week cricket can feed 4 slings). Small meal worms. They will eventually handle live 3 week crickets.
- Juveniles eat 1x/week, 3-5 week crickets, super worms (if they bury too fast crush their heads), large meal worms.
- Adults eat every 1 to 2 weeks, super worms, multiple crickets, silk worms, horned worms (great for per/post molt hydration).
- Scorplings eat every 2 to 3 days. Small 1-2 week crickets, or pre-killed crickets (one 5 week cricket can feed 4 slings). Small meal worms. They will eventually handle live 3 week crickets.
- Temperature: room temperature is good (20c). They do also like warmer temperatures and will grow faster if heat is provided ambiently. Do not use heat pads or heat lamps. Do not exceed 30c, if you can help it, for an extended period of time. Not all species prefer it warmer, check individual species care. If you choose to heat the room you keep your scorpions in be careful to monitor the humidity as you raise the temperature and adjust it accordingly.
- Housing: I aim for 3x the scorpions length and 3x its width minimum. Size up as the scorpion grows. You can put your scorpling in its adult enclosure, but you may notice it’s harder to monitor their eating, it may be hard to find them, and they will likely only utilize a small area of the space. If you are making the enclosure yourself be sure the ventilation holes are the appropriate size and smooth (you can use a drill or a heat gun). Scorpions can’t climb glass and/or plastic, though they can climb silicone somewhat. Some species are communal.
- Enrichment: housing materials can add to your spider’s enrichment. I use wood, rocks, cork, moss, fake foliage, dried leaves, live plants or anything without moving parts and small spaces they could get stuck in to decorate enclosures. If you collect materials from outside make sure to sanitize them properly with heat or insect safe cleaners (soap and water, thoroughly rinsed and dried).
- Handling: They do tolerate handling. Be aware some scorpions have potent venom. They can still pinch or sting if they feel threatened. They are also fragile so handling them on the floor or over a stable surface no more than a foot below the scorpion is best. Not all scorpions will want to be handled, please respect that. If they do get out do not cup them with your hand, please use a catch cup.
Desert Scorpions
- Light: Scorpions are nocturnal. They do not enjoy/benefit from light. Ambient room light is sufficient.
- Water: A water dish should be included in the enclosure. I add pebbles to the dish, because scorpions can drown. You can use various things as a water dish: bottle lids, glazed terra cotta plant bottoms, tea light holders, reptile water dishes, etc. Just make sure the item isn’t painted or contains other toxic materials. Also make sure the dish is shallow, they aren’t great climbers. Preferred materials: glass, plastic, glazed terra cotta. Each species will have a different humidity preference/requirement, once you have determined their humidity needs fill the water dish so the pebbles are barely covered. Use a substrate that remains dry (various textures of sand, I like to add a little dry powdered clay with the bottom level of sand to help hold burrows). You can determine if your enclosure is too damp or too dry by the scorpions behavior; It’s too damp if they will try to climbing the walls of the enclosure and not stand on the substrate (staying on the cork and not burrowing). It is too dry if they are standing in and on their water dish or digging underneath their water dish. It is also too dry if they go into death curl.
- Food: feed according to abdomen size. Overfeeding can shorten the lifespan of your scorpions. Always remove uneaten prey within 24hrs.
- Scorplings eat every 2 to 3 days. Small 1-2 week crickets, or pre-killed crickets (one 5 week cricket can feed 4 slings). Small meal worms. They will eventually handle live 3 week crickets.
- Juveniles eat 1x/week, 3-5 week crickets, super worms (if they bury too fast crush their heads), large meal worms.
- Adults eat every 1 to 2 weeks, super worms, multiple crickets, silk worms, horned worms (great for per/post molt hydration).
- Scorplings eat every 2 to 3 days. Small 1-2 week crickets, or pre-killed crickets (one 5 week cricket can feed 4 slings). Small meal worms. They will eventually handle live 3 week crickets.
- Temperature: room temperature is okay (20c). They do also like warmer temperatures and will grow faster if heat is provided ambiently. You can use a heat pad on the side of the enclosure if you need to but ambient heat is better. Ceramic heat lamps are great. Do not exceed 30c, if you can help it, for an extended period of time. Or used a day night heat cycle. Not all species prefer it warmer, check individual species care. If you choose to heat the room you keep your scorpions in be careful to monitor the humidity as you raise the temperature and adjust how often you fill the water dish.
- Housing: I aim for 3x the scorpions length and 3x its width minimum. Size up as the scorpion grows. You can put your scorpling in its adult enclosure, but you may notice it’s harder to monitor their eating, it may be hard to find them, and they will likely only utilize a small area of the space. If you are making the enclosure yourself be sure the ventilation holes are the appropriate size and smooth (you can use a drill or a heat gun). Scorpions can’t climb glass and/or plastic, though they can climb silicone somewhat. Some species are communal.
- Enrichment: housing materials can add to your spider’s enrichment. I use wood, rocks, cork, moss, fake foliage, dried leaves, or anything without moving parts and small spaces they could get stuck in to decorate enclosures. If you collect materials from outside make sure to sanitize them properly with heat or insect safe cleaners (soap and water, thoroughly rinsed and dried).
- Handling: They can tolerate handling. Be aware some scorpions have potent venom. They can still pinch or sting if they feel threatened. They are also fragile so handling them on the floor or over a stable surface no more than a foot below the scorpion is best. Not all scorpions will want to be handled, please respect that. If they do get out do not cup them with your hand, please use a catch cup.